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Chapter 4 | Chapter 5 | Chapter 9 | Chapter 11 | Chapter 13 | Chapter 1 - Book 2

CHAPTER FOUR

Bucket Baths and Ocher Robes

By 5:00am every morning, the loudspeakers from the Mela would drift over the waters the constant chatter of an unknown monologue. On the river beside us was a camp of 500 sadhus of all ages. The continual chanting of sacred mantras wrapped our camp in ancient rhythms, providing a backdrop that could not have been more perfectly orchestrated had it been special-ordered. The constant breeze rustling leaves mixed with the quiet hush of mental japa soon provided a cocoon of peacefulness about our camp unlike any I had ever known.

Back in the United States one of my deepest desires had been to sit on the banks of the Ganges River and chant the Guru Gita. This ancient text extolling love for God and Guru was my favorite part of my morning and the cornerstone of my sadhana. For almost two years, I had imagined how wonderful it would be to chant along this living entity of a river, which had over the years blessed so many spiritual seekers. Saints, sinners, animals, and gods have all had the Ganges play a part in their lives. I wanted that blessing, too.

The morning after our arrival, I quietly slipped out of the tent for meditation in the grove of holy trees. With the gates to the camp securely locked and no way to get the guard to let me out, I had to be content to watch the first streaks of gray touch the sky high on the ridge. Looking below into the edges of the river, I had my first sighting of the many sadhus taking their ritual morning bath. From my vantage point I could barely make out their forms in the mist, but the bending, ducking beneath the water, and raising of their hands high to the sky was a sacred act that left me feeling like I was looking back into another time. I felt a great intimacy with them, though I was sure they couldn’t see me.

Their robes of many shades of orange waited patiently on the banks of the river for them to finish. Some so pale they were almost peach had draped the bodies of their owners over many long years. No matter how bright or faded, they each held the intense shakti that had permeated their strands from days, months, and years of walking the breadth and width of India.

Though the words never touched my ears, I felt their prayers in my heart. How I wanted to be down there with them, learning from them, being one of them. The difference in our lives painfully obvious, the dichotomy between holy and ordinary seeped deep into my feelings of lack and low self-worth. They were the richer of the two of us.

Patiently I waited with my chanting book in hand for the guard’s all-controlling grace to unlock the gate. Once again I saw myself standing on the wrong side of the fence, wanting desperately to be free from this gilded cage that was put up for our own protection. Why did there always seem to be a gatekeeper between me and my highest aspirations?

As if on perfect cue, an aging sadhu walked slowly past, offering a greeting of “Hari Om,” smiling at us both. Replying back, the guard finally realized I had been standing behind him, though he wasn’t sure for how long. Slowly he turned and looked at my chanting book and finally the lock. Easily his key turned the tumblers and offered the freedom to make my dream a reality. Walking through the gate, I watched as the sadhu moved on, but not before raising his right hand in a gesture of blessing to us both. Yes, without the grace of Gurus, that gate would be forever locked, of that I was sure.

Chapter 4 | Chapter 5 | Chapter 9 | Chapter 11 | Chapter 13 | Chapter 1 - Book 2



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